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Strawberries Here they start in late February, and by mid-March, if the weather is sunny, they are bountiful and sweet. All through April and then May, we swim in a sea of strawberries. This year we've only had a few inches of rain and plenty of sun, so they're even sweeter than usual. In Ventura county, it's possible to take strawberries for granted. But then you discover a new variety, and it's strawberry love all over again. It happened to me with Gaviotas. We always have the big Chandlers and in the winter we have Seascapes, both of which can be quite good in their season, but when I tried Gaviotas I was knocked over. A burst of intense strawberry flavor, a delicate, juicy texture, and sweetness that can only come from sun ripening. They were twice the price of the others, but still a bargain. The grower told me that they were much more labor-intensive to cultivate, and because of their natural softness, not really suitable for shippping. Just another California treasure. But there are delicious local strawberries in many parts of the country and May is the month when they begin to appear, even in the colder northern areas. Last year I read a piece on local strawberries in Gourmet magazine. It disdainfully dismissed California strawberries as if they were the equivelant of pre-shredded cheese, and went on to list some of the varieties that can be found in other parts of the country. This is good information, although I'm sure you know when your local berries are in season because you see them at your farmers market. But I had to laugh at the California remarks. Of course you don't like those California strawberries, I thought. You're getting the ones we send to New York. And I agree - local produce is the way to go, and that's why I only buy Gaviotas now, our local variety. Whichever variety grows well in your area, this is the time to seek it out and revel in berries. You are almost certain to get much better strawberries in a farmers market, farm stand, or "you-pick" field than you will ever find in a supermarket. To get the best, you must taste before you buy. Look for dark red color, and use your nose. If the berries give off a sweet, fruity perfume, chances are good that they'll taste just like that. Buy a lot, you won't be sorry. The first berries of the season must be eaten as simply as possible - with nothing added, or perhaps with just a dusting of sugar and a squeeze of lemon. Next, you'll want to have this perfect dessert: a bowl of ripe strawberries accompanied by softly whipped cream, which has been sweetened and flavored with a drop of Grand Marnier. Add some thin, dark chocolate biscotti and you have a dessert fit for a queen (that's your mom, on mother's day). One of the best strawberry desserts I ever had was a dish of dark red berries sprinkled with a few drops of a rare, aged balsamic vinegar, and some cracked pepper. It sounded strange but it was wonderful, a study in contrast and balance. Of course, to make this work you must start with perfect strawberries, and the balsamic vinegar must be a true one, aged in successively smaller oak barrels for years and years, until it is more of a pungent, caramely syrup than what we ordinarily think of as vinegar. Most of us don't have that kind around the house - it's just too expensive. So to evoke the memory, I made a simple sugar syrup with brown sugar, and added a few spoonfuls of supermarket "balsamic vinegar". Drizzled over sliced berries and a scoop of vanilla ice cream, it was delicious, and I liked the slightly acidic bite behind the sweetness. After a few weeks of strawberries plain and simple, you may want something more fancy. Then it's time for a glorious strawberry tart. The one I made (see it in this month's new recipes) was adapted from a friend's old-fashioned pie. I used an Italian- style crust, more cookie-like than the plain shortcrusts used for American pies, and I added a thin layer of almond paste under the strawberries. Because the tart combines whole fresh berries with crushed, cooked berries, it has a lively flavor and a shiny, jewel-like finish. OK, maybe this is the one to make for your mother on mother's day.
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