CRISP-ROASTED FINGERLING POTATOES with ROASTED TOMATO AND GARLIC SAUCE

This is based on a popular Spanish tapa, Patatas Bravas. The traditional Spanish dish calls for fried potatoes, and a fiery sauce heavy on oil. I was oven roasting fingerling potatoes one day when I got it into my head to make a dipping sauce for them, along the lines of the Spanish one but lighter and not quite so "bravo".

I roasted tomatoes, onions, garlic and just one small hot pepper, then pureed them all together with a small amount of olive oil, and served the golden brown potato fingers with the sauce as an appetizer. I had to beat the teenagers away with a stick to keep a few for the rest of us.

You can substitute large potatoes cut into wedges if you can't find fingerlings, but make an effort - the taste and texture of the potatoes is essential to this simple, wonderful dish.

3 large vine ripe tomatoes (about 1 1/2 lbs)
1 large onion
1 small fresh hot pepper
about 1/3 cup fruity olive oil
salt to taste
1 head garlic
red wine vinegar to taste
fresh ground pepper
2 tsps. chopped fresh thyme
2 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley
3 lbs. fingerling potatoes

Cut the tomatoes into large wedges and arrange them skin side down on a non-stick baking sheet. Cut the onion into large pieces. Core and seed the pepper and cut it in strips. Toss the onion and pepper with a few drops of the olive oil, and arrange on another part of the baking sheet. Cut the top off the head of garlic, drizzle a bit of the oil on it, and wrap it tightly in aluminum foil. Place it on the baking sheet with the other vegetables.

Roast all the vegetables at 375° for at least an hour, checking them after half an hour. When the onions are soft and browning, take them out and set them aside, allowing the tomatoes more time as needed. They should be very soft, and showing charred bits here and there.

When the tomatoes are ready, scrape them off their skins into a bowl. Squeeze the soft garlic out of its husks. Combine the tomatoes, onions, peppers and garlic in a blender, along with two or three tablespoons of olive oil, a dash of salt and pepper, and a tiny bit of wine vinegar. Blend briefly and taste. Add salt and vinegar until the sauce has the piquancy you like. Then add the chopped fresh herbs and give it a quick final spin.

The sauce can be prepared ahead of time if you like. Serve it warm or at room temperature.

To roast the potatoes, scrub them and halve them lengthwise. If you don't have fingerlings and are using another variety, cut them into long wedges no more than an inch wide. Toss the potatoes with a tablespoon or two of olive oil and some salt, spread them on a non-stick baking sheet, and roast at 400° for about an hour, turning them and moving them around twice during that time. They should be golden brown.

Serve the potatoes hot, warm, or at room temperature, with a bowl of the roasted tomato and garlic sauce on the side for dipping.

Serves 6-8 as an appetizer.