You can use fresh chestnuts for this risotto, or the excellent peeled and cooked chestnuts that are available vacuum packed in jars. (Williams Sonoma offers them in their catalogue.)

12 oz. peeled chestnuts (about 2 cups chopped), or 1 lb. fresh chestnuts
1 large red onion
2 Tbs. olive oil
1 Tbs. butter
7 - 8 cups light, low-salt vegetable broth
1/2 cup diced fennel bulb
2 cups arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
2/3 cup rough-chopped flat leaf parsley
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese (more for the table)
salt and pepper

If you are starting with fresh chestnuts, roast and peel them first; this can be done well ahead. With a very sharp knife, cut a cross in the blunt end of each chestnut, then put them in a roasting pan with half an inch of water and cook them in a 350° oven for about half an hour, or until they split open. Let them cool until you can handle them, then peel them. Coarsely chop the chestnuts.

Peel and quarter the onion and slice it crosswise. Heat the oil and butter in a large, non-stick saute pan and cook the onion over a medium flame, stirring often, until it is soft and beginning to color - about fifteen minutes. Meanwhile, heat the vegetable broth to a simmer and keep it warm.

Add the chopped fennel to the onion and cook about 3 minutes more, then add the rice and stir for 2 minutes, until every grain is glistening.

Pour in the white wine and stir as it is absorbed - this will take less than a minute. Now add about a cup of the heated broth and the chopped chestnuts. Adjust the flame so that the broth simmers gently with the rice, and stir it slowly with a wooden spoon.

When the broth has almost all been absorbed, add another cup or so, and continue in the same manner, stirring all the while, until most of the broth is used up and the rice is al dente - tender but firm. It will take about 20 more minutes.

When the rice has reached that perfect texture, stir in the Parmesan cheese, about half the parsley, and another half a cup or so of broth. Taste, and correct the seasoning with a bit of salt and pepper, as needed. Serve the risotto at once in shallow bowls, sprinkle with additional parsley, and pass additional Parmesan cheese at the table.

Serves 6.

The combination of arugula, sharp cheese and sweet Asian pears is wonderful. Asian pears are one of the few fruits I know which taste better chilled, so keep them in the refrigerator until you're ready to use them.

8 - 10 cups very tender young arugula, lightly packed
1 medium fennel bulb
1 small bunch asparagus
2 medium Asian pears, chilled
2/3 cup coarsely grated or shaved Dry Monterey Jack cheese
fruity green olive oil, or walnut oil
sherry vinegar
salt to taste
optional: truffle oil
optional: chopped, lightly toasted walnuts

Trim any long stems from the arugula, wash it and spin it in a salad spinner. If the leaves are tiny, leave them whole. If longer, take them in bunches and cut them in half.

Trim the fennel bulb and quarter it lengthwise, cutting out the core, then slice it crosswise into paper-thin slivers. Trim the asparagus, and cut it on a radical slant into very thin slices. Quarter and core the Asian pears and cut them crosswise into thin slices.

In an ample bowl, toss together the arugula, fennel, asparagus, sliced pears, and grated cheese. Drizzle on a small amount of olive or walnut oil and toss again. Add a bit of truffle oil if you have some, and a few drops of a good sherry vinegar. Toss again and taste. Add salt only if it is needed - the Parmesan cheese may provide enough.

Adjust the amounts of oil and vinegar to your taste - the leaves should be shiny, but there should be no residue of oil in the bottom of the bowl - then toss the salad one more time, and serve. You can sprinkle chopped walnuts on top of each serving if you like.