I'm always sorry to see radicchio, which has so much flavor and character, used simply as a touch of color in some mix of ordinary lettuces. Here's a great winter salad that stars the red leaf, with earthy and tangy supporting players - olives, walnuts, and an aged goat cheese.

Use the tight round heads of raddichio for this, and if you can't find a good, aged goat cheese, substitute a tangy sheep's milk cheese - something with a little kick to it.

2 medium heads radicchio (5 cups sliced)
2 large heads Belgian endive (3 cups sliced)
1 medium fennel bulb
1/4 cup raisins
4 - 5 large, cured green olives (3 Tbs. chopped)
10 oil-cured black olives (3 Tbs. chopped)
3 - 4 oz. aged goat cheese
1/4 cup walnut pieces
2 Tbs. fruity green olive oil
sea salt and pepper to taste
2 tsp. (maximum) balsamic vinegar

Clean and trim the radicchio, cut the heads into quarters lengthwise, then slice crosswise into strips about 1/2" wide. Trim the endives and slice them 1/2" wide as well. Trim and clean the fennel, cut it in half lengthwise, then into paper thin slices.

Put the raisins in a small bowl and pour enough boiling water over them to just cover. Leave them to soak for about 8 minutes, then drain and discard the water. Meanwhile, smash the olives on a cutting board with the flat of your chef's knife and remove the pits, then coarsely chop them. You should have a total of about 6 tablespoons roughly chopped olives. Coarsely grate the cheese.

Toss together all the prepared ingredients, add the olive oil, sprinkle on some salt, toss and taste. The amount of salt you need will vary, depending on how salty the olives are. Grind in some black pepper and finally, add a few drops of vinegar and taste once more. This is not meant to be a tart salad, so go carefully with the vinegar.

Serves 4 to 6.

RED CABBAGE AND APPLE SALAD

This started life as a hot cabbage dish, but as I kept eating it, warm, cool and then cold from the fridge, I realized it was really meant to be a salad. Never mind - it's an easy, bright-flavored dish that can be served at any temperature.

1 large head red cabbage (about 3 lbs.)
3 crisp Fuji apples
2 Tbs. grapeseed oil (or olive oil)
2 1/2 tsp. salt, more to taste
1 tsp. fennel seed
lots of fresh ground black pepper
4-5 Tbs. cider vinegar

Shred the cabbage. Peel and core the apples, cut them into wedges, and slice the wedges crosswise, thinly.

In a large non-stick pan, heat the oil. Add the cabbage, along with two teaspoons salt and the fennel seed, and cook over medium heat, stirring often, for about fifteen minutes. Add the apples, lots of fresh ground black pepper, and four tablespoons cider vinegar. Continue cooking, stirring now and then, for about another twenty minutes or until the cabbage is soft and juicy and reduced by about half.

Taste the cabbage, and correct the seasoning with more salt and vinegar, as needed. The apples should provide just the right touch of sweetness, and the pepper some real bite. Serve hot, warm or cold.

Makes about 8 cups, or 6 to 8 servings.

RICE AND CHINESE CABBAGE SALAD

I had a salad like this at a friend's party, and saw how well it held up in a buffet. It's also a great thing to add to the wintertime diet plan - hearty, tasty, and very healthy.

1 head Napa cabbage (8 cups shredded)
1 head green Chinese cabbage (8 cups shredded)
4 cups cooked brown rice
2 carrots, shredded (3/4 cup)
1/2 cup very finely sliced green onions
1/2 cup chopped roasted peanuts
1 bunch cilantro (1 cup leaves, packed)

dressing:

1 clove garlic, minced
1 Tbs. dark sesame oil
2 Tbs. soy sauce
2 Tbs. rice vinegar
2 Tbs. honey
2 Tbs. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. salt

garnish:
additional peanuts, if desired

While you wash and shred all your cabbage, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Plunge the shredded cabbage into the boiling water and after one minute, drain it and rinse with cold water. This blanching will take any bitter edge from the cabbage.

Press the cabbage well in the colander to get rid of all excess moisture, then combine the cabbage with the cooked brown rice, shredded carrots, green onions, peanuts and cilantro. Toss well.

Whisk together all the ingredients of the dressing, pour it over the salad and toss again.

Serve the salad plain, over mixed greens, or with slices of grilled tofu arranged on it.

Serves eight.