Asparagus and Herb Roulade

For the occasion when you want something a bit fancier than usual, try this roulade. It's perfect for an Easter brunch - full of spring flavor, and beautiful to look at, each slice spiralling out in a green and white mosaic. And, it can be eaten hot or cold, so it's easy to fit into your plan.

the roulade base:

1 garlic clove, chopped
1 Tbs. olive oil
7 Tbs. butter
12 oz. spinach
1/2 tsp. salt, more to taste
fresh ground pepper to taste
1/2 medium onion, finely chopped
2/3 cup flour
1 cup warm milk
5 eggs, separated, plus 1 egg white
1/4 cup chopped fresh dill, packed 2 tsps. chopped fresh oregano
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

the filling:

8 oz. queso fresco, or any mild, dry white cheese
6 oz. neufchatel cheese
grated zest of 1 large lemon
1 egg, beaten
1 Tbs. all-purpose flour
1 lb. slender asparagus stalks, lightly steamed

Start by making the roulade base. Sauté the chopped garlic in the olive oil and one tablespoon butter for a minute or two, then add the spinach, salt and a dash of pepper. Toss the spinach over medium heat until all its water has cooked away and it sizzles in the pan, then let it cool a bit and chop it finely.

Melt the remaining 6 tablespoons butter in a medium saucepan and sauté the chopped onion in it until it just begins to color. Add the flour and stir constantly over low heat until the flour is golden, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the warm milk and stir vigorously until the mixture is smooth and thick, then let it cool for a few minutes.

Beat in the egg yolks, the chopped spinach, dill, oregano, and Parmesan cheese. Add more salt and pepper if you like.

Beat the 6 egg whites until they hold peaks. Stir half the egg whites thoroughly into the spinach and herb mixture, then gently fold in the other half.

Butter a 10"x14" jelly roll pan and sprinkle it with fine, dry breadcrumbs. Tap the pan to move the breadcrumbs around until the pan is evenly coated, so that your roulade base does not stick. Carefully spoon the egg-spinach-herb mixture into the prepared pan, distributing it as evenly as you can. Then spread the mixture very gently, taking care not to smear the breadcrumb coating.

Bake this in a preheated 375° oven for 15-18 minutes, or until it is puffed and coming away from the sides.

Meanwhile, crumble the fresh white cheese into a bowl, add the neufchatel, grated lemon zest, beaten egg and flour, and mash everything together well with a fork.

When the roulade base is out of the oven, lift the edges of the roulade gently with a spatula to be sure that it will come off the pan. Then, using oven mitts to protect your hands, stretch a tea towel over the top of the pan and hold it there as you swiftly turn the pan over onto a flat surface. The roulade base should drop out onto the tea towel. Leave it covered with the towel as it cools off for a few minutes.

Spread the cheese mixture over the roulade base, leaving a one and a half inch border on each of the long sides. Arrange the asparagus spears on top of the cheese, lining them up parallel with the long side and about half an inch apart, and allowing the tips to extend a quarter inch over the ends of the base. Fill in any gaps in the center with additional spears. You should be looking at lateral green and white stripes.

Starting with the long side nearest you, begin rolling up the roulade. Use the tea towel to help lift the edge evenly and fold it over, then keep rolling gently - just like a jelly roll. You should finish with a seam at the bottom.

Use two large spatulas to lift the roulade carefully onto a baking sheet. Cover it snugly with foil and return it to the hot oven for about another 20 minutes. (If you allow the roulade to cool completely, increase the time to 25 minutes.) Allow the roulade to rest a few minutes before slicing it.

The roulade can be served hot, cut in thick slices with a very sharp knife, drizzled with melted butter and garnished with a few large shavings of Parmesan cheese. It can also be chilled, sliced thinly and served as part of a buffet, with a salad, or as finger food with a chilled glass of white wine.

Serves 8-10.