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THE BEANS OF SUMMER Lima beans are one of those vegetables that most folks love to hate, and they might have good reason - the things that come out of cans are not wonderful. But at this time of year, here in Ventura County, we get the real thing. Ventura County was once a major growing area for lima beans. I don't know how many are grown now, but I know how good they are. Some time in late July we start seeing mounds of the downy, soft green pods in our farmers' market, and sometimes we see something even better - ready shelled limas! No work, no waiting. These pale green, tender beans are as different from canned limas as a vine-ripened heirloom tomato is from the hard pink knob on the supermarket shelf in January. A fresh lima cooks quickly, in about fifteen minutes. It has the right velvety texture, but a nice firmness as well, holding it's shape. And - yes - it tastes like a green lima bean, not like a mealy paste. If you've enjoyed steamed edamame or bright green favas, try these - even if you have to shell them yourself. I've been bringing home a pound of the shelled beans every week since they appeared, and have been putting them in all sorts of things, including my new favorite pasta. I started with a simple combination of steamed limas, creamy feta cheese, and finely diced fresh tomatoes. Sounds good already, doesn't it? I kept the seasoning elements simple, too - garlic and lots of fresh, mild marjoram. Marjoram is a great summer herb, often overlooked when that powerhouse basil is around - but it's the new oregano, as I've been telling my friends. It has a similar flavor, only more gentle, and it's a dream match with feta cheese and tomatoes. The technique for this dish was just right for a warm summer evening. I lined up steamed limas, the diced yellow and red tomatoes, crumbled soft feta cheese, somw chopped garlic, and a generous amount of marjoram leaves. When the pasta was nearly cooked, I poured some fruity olive oil into a big skillet, added the garlic and let it sizzle for a minute or two, then I added the tomatoes. Immediately, I drained the al dente pasta and threw it into the pan along with the limas and marjoram. A toss or two, and as soon as the tomatoes were just hot, I added the cheese. Another toss or two, and done. The tomatoes don't have time to cook, but they release some juice, which the pasta quickly absorbs. The cheese barely melts, the limas remain green and delicate, and the whole combination has a nice, summery freshness. Just before serving, I like to add a little more green olive oil, and some salt and pepper. Try this. You will forget the terrifying canned beans of your childhood and become a lima bean convert. As is so often the case, the same basic ingredients can be combined in slightly different ways for entirely different dishes. I had been tossing some cooked fresh limas into salads and loving the results. They work very well with the milder greens, and are excellent with curly endive, and a bit of raddicchio. Once I put together cooled lima beans, cherry tomatoes, crumbled feta, and strips of roasted red peppers, and tossed all of it with a mix of tender lettuces. The dressing was just a light bath of olive oil and a touch of vinegar, and it was terrific. The classic lima bean dish, of course, is old-fashioned succotash. A real piece of Americana, this is a mixture of lima beans and corn. It's a really bad idea when the limas and corn come from cans, but just great when both are fresh. Diced red bell peppers are an optional third element. I like taking the formula of succotash and making a soup of it - a sweet corn soup with green limas and a scattering of red peppers. With of without cream, it's delightful. Lima beans - look for them, ask for them, buy them. The fresh beans of summer will not disappoint you. And check the "new recipes" section for my favorite pasta (of the moment).
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