These filled crepes look just like old-fashioned blintzes - until you cut them open. The filling is all green, no cheese at all. I wanted greens the way I often sauté them, with olive oil and garlic and some fresh herbs to brighten the taste. Here they are, wrapped in crepes, and what a spectacular flavor.

A delicate sauce of oyster mushrooms and cream is a nice finishing touch, though you could garnish the crepes with simple sautéed mushrooms and omit the cream if you wanted a less rich version.

Dried oregano can be substituted for fresh if need be, but fresh mint leaves are essential.

3 large fennel bulbs 3 large onions 6 Tbs. green olive oil 2 tsp. sea salt, more to taste 2 bunches Swiss chard (1 1/2 lbs.) 2 bunches spinach (1 1/2 lbs.) 1 bunch sorrel (8-12 oz.) 5-6 cloves garlic, chopped 1 tsp. fresh chopped oregano, or 1/2 tsp. dry 3 Tbs. fresh chopped mint 1-2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice pepper to taste

sauce:

1 1/2 lbs. oyster mushrooms 1 Tbs. olive oil 1 Tbs. butter salt and pepper to taste 2 Tbs. cognac or sherry 1 - 1 1/2 cups cream

Trim and chop the white part of the fennel. Peel and finely chop the onions. You should have about 3 to 3 1/2 cups of each. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large non-stick pan and add the chopped fennel and onion, and about a teaspoon of salt. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring now and then, until the vegetables are nicely caramelized, soft and evenly golden brown. This will take about an hour.

Meanwhile, wash all the greens. Remove only the tough parts of the chard stems, leaving the thinner ribs, and chop all the greens coarsely. It will look like an enormous amount, but it will turn out to be just enough.

Heat the remaining olive oil in your largest non-stick sauté pan and stir the chopped garlic in it for about a minute, then start adding greens. Toss the greens in the hot oil and, as they wilt, add more - until you have added them all. Sprinkle them with a teaspoon of salt and keep sautéing over a medium flame, stirring often, until the excess liquid has cooked away and the greens are dry enough to sizzle in the pan.

Allow the greens to cool slightly, then turn them out on a board and chop them a little more; you want a thick, well chopped mass, but not a puree. Stir in the caramelized fennel and onion, the fresh herbs and the lemon juice. Taste, and add salt and pepper if needed.

Fill the crepes as you would any blintz: put about two rounded tablespoons of the green filling in the middle of a crepe, fold one side over, tuck in the ends, and fold again, to make a tidy little package. Arrange the filled crepes in a lightly buttered baking dish just large enough to hold them. You should have at least a dozen, and possibly as many as sixteen filled crepes, depending on how plump you like them.

Make the sauce: Clean and slice the oyster mushrooms, and sauté them in the oil and butter with a sprinkle of salt and pepper, stirring often, until their liquid is cooked away and they are golden. Add the cognac or sherry, stirring as it cooks away, then add the cream. When the cream is hot, taste and correct the seasoning with more salt or pepper if you like.

Half an hour before serving, bake the filled crepes in a 350 degree oven, keeping them covered with foil for the first 20 minutes, uncovered for the next ten. If the crepes were in the refrigerator, you may need another five minutes.

Serve two crepes on a plate, and spoon some mushrooms and a little cream over each serving.

Serves 6-8.

*Use any basic crepe recipe; I use the one on page 21 of The New Vegetarian Epicure.

APRICOT AND CHERRY GALETTE

Here are two of the great flavors of early summer, combined in an easy, rustic tart. Serve it with vanilla ice cream, or a spoonful of creme fraiche.

the pastry:

1 2/3 cup flour
2 tsp. sugar
3/4 tsp. salt
10 Tbs. unsalted butter
4-5 Tbs. ice water

1 1/2 lbs. firm, tart apricots
1 1/2 lbs. sweet red cherries
1 1/2 Tbs. cornstarch
3/4 cup fine sugar
1/2 tsp. almond extract
dash of cinnamon
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
3 Tbs. flour

1/2 cup apricot jam or apple jelly, melted and strained

Make the pastry first so that it has time to rest. Put the flour, sugar and salt into the container of a food processor and add the cold butter, cut into bits. Process briefly, until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Sprinkle in the ice water while running the processor, just until the pastry starts to hold together.

Remove the pastry from the processor and form it into a ball, then wrap it in plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator for about half an hour.

Slice the apricots off their stones and leave them in halves if they are small, or cut them into quarters if large. Stem and pit the cherries.

Whisk together half a cup of the sugar, the cornstarch and the cinnamon. In a bowl, toss together the prepared fruit and the sugar mixture, along with the almond extract.

Combine the walnuts, a quarter cup of sugar and the three tablespoons flour in a food processor and process briefly, just until the nuts are ground to a meal.

Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured board to a circle about 18" across, and don't worry about the rough edges. Drape the pastry over the rolling pin and transfer it to a baking sheet lined with parchment, allowing the excess to hang over the sides.

Spread the walnut mixture in the center of the pastry, leaving about a two-inch border all around. Pile the fruit on top of the walnut layer, adjusting it with your fingers to make sure the apricots and cherries are more or less evenly distributed and look nice on top. Fold the border of the pastry circle up over the fruit, letting it fall into loose pleats. Remember, you're going for a rustic look.

Bake the galette for twenty minutes at 425 degrees loosely covered with a sheet of aluminum foil, then lower the temperature to 375 degrees and bake for another forty minutes. Remove the foil for the last ten minutes or so to brown the crust.

Allow the galette to cool, and brush the exposed fruit with melted jam or jelly to make it shiny. Use two long spatulas to slide the galette onto a serving platter.

Serves 8.